Troubleshoot

• Clear all debris from skimmers, pump baskets 
• and the bottom of the pool.
• Clean filter to insure good water pressure.
• Make sure return jets are pointed down or even with surface.
• Check water level for proper pH.  
• To combat algae, optimum pH is 7.0 – 7.4.
• Treat your pool with the proper chemical.
  — Baquacil pools should use Oxidizer.
  — Chlorine pools should use Calcium Hypochlorite, NOT Sodium DiChlor.
• Add an algaecide to prevent the return of algae.
• Add an enzyme product to help clear your pool of dead algae.  
• A Floc may be needed.  Ask our staff for instructions.
• Clean filter regularly to aid in clearing your pool.

We recommend:

There are more than 100 reasons for a pool to go cloudy. The cause can be anything from improper water balance to an undersized filter.

There are 3 parts to pool water clarity:
Water Circulation, Filtration and Chemistry.

First – check water circulation. Put your hand in front of a return jet to see if the pressure is strong. Also, point your return eyeballs/jets parallel to the water surface or slightly downward – this provides better water circulation at the bottom of the pool. You really do not want to see a strong current on the top of the water.

Second – remove all debris from bottom of pool & skim any obvious debris off the top. Empty your skimmer and pump baskets of all debris. Backwash if you have a sand or DE filter using the sight glass as a guide. Clean cartridge filters. Also, inspect DE grids and paper cartridge filters for holes and replace if needed. Paper cartridges should be replaced after 3 years. Note: paper cartridge filters should not be used with Baquacil sanitizing products.

Third – check pH, Alkalinity, Hardness & Sanitizer levels and adjust if needed. If all are good, shock your pool at normal levels (1 lb/10,000 gallons, or 1 gallon Baquacil Oxidizer/10,000 gallons)

Keep pump running 24 hrs until pool clears. Repeated cleaning of the filter may be necessary.

Products like Enzyme Treat, Clarifiers and Phosphate Removers are available to treat cloudy pools, however, these products should not be used unless the process above has been performed.

Questions/problems – visit Pools Patios & Porches with pictures of your pool and pool equipment.

What is Cyanuric Acid/Stabilizer?
Cyanuric Acid (CYA) or Stabilizer/Conditioner is necessary to restrict the loss of chlorine due to the sun’s UV rays and thereby saving on chlorine use and cost.

What is a NORMAL level for CYA?
Recommended levels are 20-50 ppm. Most pools should operate around 20-30 ppm. Public pools are required by the Health Department to shut down with CYA levels above 100 ppm, and drain and refill the pool with fresh water.

What is the problem with high CYA levels?
High CYA levels make your chlorine completely inactive, locking it up so it’s not effective fighting bacteria, fecal matter, cryptosporidium, giardia, algae, and other pool contaminants. Pool owners will also experience low pH levels and alkalinity (which helps control your pH) which can lead to structural damage, system failures, extreme red eye and itchy dry skin. Because CYA interferes with testing, homeowners will obtain incorrect pH and alkalinity results with drop or test strip methods.

What causes high CYA levels?
While most 3” chlorine tablets contain small levels of CYA, the most common cause of high CYA levels are chlorine shock and granules that contain Sodium DiChloroisocyanurate, (or DiChlor) and most recently, all products manufactured using the brand name Clorox. How do I lower or reduce my CYA levels?
There is no chemical to lower CYA levels. The only method is to drain your pool by a proportionate amount and refill with fresh water.

How can I prevent CYA high levels moving forward?
Use chlorine shock containing Calcium Hypochlorite (cal hypo). You can also use 3” tablets with no CYA – these include: Poolife NST Tablet & Sustain 3-Part System or convert to a salt pool. Consult with Pools Patios & Porches as to which product will fit your needs the best.

Phosphates alone, in small quantities are not a problem. Found in high levels or with persistent algae, can be another issue.

Phosphates can come from detergents – in swimsuits, shampoos, perfumes, hair products, lotions, lawn fertilizers, tap water, and even some pool chemicals.

While normal levels are indicated as 0-500 ppm, we do not think they are an issue below 1000 ppm if your pool is clear. Levels above 1000 ppm, or above 500 ppm with persistent algae, should be treated/removed.

The two most common issues with phosphates are:
1. Phosphates are food for algae. High levels found in green pools need to be treated.
2. Phosphates may be the crystals forming on Chlorine generator cells in salt systems. Heavy accumulations lower the efficiency of your system to convert salt to chlorine, and if left alone, can cause major circulation or flow issues.

Monitoring your pH levels can help both situations. To minimize the effects of high phosphates, keep your pH between 7.2 – 7.4. Higher pH causes phosphates to come out of solution and
crystalize on your equipment.

We recommend the use of Haviland PHOSAWAY to reduce your phosphate levels.

Have your pool water tested for the best recommendation to treat your pool problems.

PPP Water Testing

When staining appears in your pool, it’s important to first test the water for chemistry balance. Most staining is caused by improper balance.

Stains come in two basic forms, organic and metal.

Organic Stains occur from leaves and other matter that settle to the bottom, releasing tannins that can leach out and stain the surface where the debris rested all winter. Sometimes these stains will go away by balancing and shocking the pool to get chlorine levels up.

Metal Stains can arise from copper, iron and high cyanuric acid levels. Some common sources of metals include heaters, well water, fertilizers, cheap chemicals and some algaecides. Proper pH levels help to avoid staining. Greenish stains tend to be copper, brown staining is due to iron, and purplish stains arise from high copper and cyanuric acid levels (>100 ppm) combined. Green slimy stains usually indicate algae issues.

If your system has a pool heater, all chlorine products should be introduced AFTER the heater and have a check valve installed. Putting tablets in skimmers are not good for any heating system.

Metal stains can generally be removed with a metal remover combined with a sequestering agent to help filter the metals out of the water. Metal removers often contain phosphates – you should test phosphate levels after these products are used and adjust accordingly. Preventative metal removers usually do not contain phosphates.

While some stains lift fairly easy, others may be difficult and are generally due to an aging pool surface – whether gunite, which becomes more porous, or vinyl, where the sheen of the vinyl has worn down.

Do NOT use abrasive products to scrub stains away. This may damage your pool surface permanently.

The simple addition of a sequestering agent added weekly/biweekly, goes a long way to keeping your pool surfaces looking newer longer. We recommend the use of Haviland RUST N SCALE to prevent staining.